As well as being a deliberately annoying advertising campaign comparing models is not really a good idea. Sure its good to see, out of 2 models side by side, which is better but ultimately a model should really be compared with the prototype it represents. On the surface the Lima 37 looked a better model than the old Hornby one (with its class 47 bogies) but the truth was neither really looked like a real 37. The irony was if you tidied up the old Hornby moulding the bodyshell, at least, was the closer of the two.
Now there’s a chance that some people may be thinking “whats he on about now, he often posts before and after pictures of his stuff” and indeed they would be right (there’s a whole page dedicated to the subject in the vehicles section). However it does pay to keep a track when modelling stuff on where you started from. I am sure we have all seen ‘detailed’ models that actually look worse than what the modeller started with. If we are honest we probably have all been guilty of doing it ourselves now and then. The other advantage to doing this is it helps people that are new(ish) to the hobby, and especially the modification of RTR stuff, decide for themselves if the effort is worth it to them. They may decide it would be too much work or risk for what they see as little gain and that’s absolutely fine. They have made an informed decision and no one can argue with it.
All of this is really just a (somewhat dubious) justification for still waffling on about those Mk3 Pullmans. To me the modifications to the window frames, bogies and adding flush glazing (either DIY or Laserglaze) is a small amount of work for what I feel is a quite significant gain but by you might agree, you might not. All im really doing with the images above and below if giving you the tools to make your own mind up.
I havent been able to shake off the Parcels stock thing either with yet more Lima GUV’s receiving attention. Compared to the Newspaper one shown earlier, a motorail version is a nice easy project.
The bogies are Replica again and the buffer plates from DC kits (Replica do them as well). Retracted buffers (at the far end) and the dropped buckeye coupling are from MJT as are the roof vents) the lima ones are a bit vague/freelance). Extended buffers (this end) are from Four Most Models.
Hi Jim,
It’s the old debate really – in my case time V detail. I can’t find much time for modelling so I’m personally happy re numbering stock but that’s it. A full loco re spray would require further investment in equipment and I doubt the time put in would justify the amateur result.
But, if I just do , something, to the stock I feel like a real modeller again…
I don’t have the space for a layout so I like tinkering about. I will read an article or talk to other modellers and be inspired. I’m currently building some Cambrian Dogfish wagon kits but using styrene angle, wire handrails and other finer details. The only problem, as Jim has aluded to, you do one and you have to do the lot!
Ian